Gelish Color Plus · the formula
HEMA-free, TPO-free gel polish
Gelish Color Plus is the new Gelish gel polish, formulated without HEMA, TPO or TPHP. It is EU compliant, highly pigmented, and gives up to 21 days of wear. Here is what each of those three ingredients is, and why it matters.
What is HEMA, and why go HEMA-free?
HEMA (2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate) is a small methacrylate molecule that many gels and bases use to bond to the nail and cure hard. Because it is so small, uncured HEMA that touches the skin can sensitise it, and it is the ingredient most often linked to allergic reactions to gel nails: itching, swelling or lifting around the nail and fingertips.
The British Association of Dermatologists has warned that once someone is sensitised to acrylates the allergy is usually lifelong. That is why many technicians and clients now ask for HEMA-free gel, and why Gelish made Color Plus without it.
What is TPO, and why was it banned?
TPO (trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide) is a photoinitiator: the ingredient that reacts to the light of your lamp and makes gel set. It was classified in the EU as toxic for reproduction, and from 1 September 2025 it was banned from cosmetics sold in the EU, including gel polish.
Brands have had to reformulate. Gelish describes Color Plus as TPO-free and EU compliant, so you are not working with old stock built around an ingredient that is being phased out.
What is TPHP?
TPHP (triphenyl phosphate) is a plasticiser some polishes use to stay flexible. It has been studied as a possible hormone disruptor, so newer clean formulas leave it out. Color Plus is TPHP-free too.
HEMA-free is not the same as allergy-proof
Other methacrylates and acrylates can also cause reactions, so no gel can promise that nobody will ever react. What makes the biggest difference is technique:
- Keep gel on the nail plate, never on the cuticle or skin.
- Apply thin coats and cure every layer fully, in a lamp matched to the system.
- Use the matching base and top coat: Gelish recommends Foundation or Quick Release Base Gel and the Color Plus No Cleanse Top Coat.
- If you have reacted to gel before, see a GP or dermatologist about patch testing before you try again.
Gelish Color Plus at a glance
- Formulated without HEMA, TPO and TPHP; EU compliant.
- Highly pigmented, full coverage, up to 21 days of wear.
- 15 ml soak-off gel polish, LED or UV cured.
- 45 shades in this soft launch; Gelish plans 240 in total by the end of 2026.
- Every bottle has its shade number on the front, so you can order by number.
HEMA-free nudes
HEMA-free pinks
Questions
What does HEMA-free gel polish mean?
It means the polish is formulated without HEMA (2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate), a small methacrylate molecule that many gels use to help them bond and cure. HEMA is the ingredient most often linked to allergic reactions to gel nails.
Why is TPO no longer used in gel polish?
TPO is a photoinitiator, the ingredient that reacts to the lamp and makes gel set. It was classified in the EU as toxic for reproduction and banned from cosmetics sold in the EU from 1 September 2025, so brands have reformulated without it.
What is TPHP?
TPHP (triphenyl phosphate) is a plasticiser some nail polishes use to stay flexible. It has been studied as a possible hormone disruptor, so newer clean formulas, including Gelish Color Plus, leave it out.
Is Gelish Color Plus HEMA-free and TPO-free?
Yes. Gelish describes Color Plus as HEMA-free, TPO-free and TPHP-free, and EU compliant, with up to 21 days of wear.
Can I still react to a HEMA-free gel?
Possibly. Other methacrylates and acrylates can also sensitise skin, so HEMA-free is not the same as allergy-proof. Keep gel off the skin, cure every layer fully, and if you have reacted to gel before, speak to a GP or dermatologist about patch testing.
Do I need a new base and top coat for Color Plus?
Gelish recommends Gelish Foundation or Quick Release Base Gel underneath and the Gelish Color Plus No Cleanse Top Coat on top.